If you're a big fan of day trips and have already hit up Ob Khan National Park for some cold beers and a refreshing swim, or spent a hot afternoon overlooking Huay Tung Tao Lake with friends, then you would definitely enjoy a lazy Saturday or Sunday spent at Tweechol Botanic Gardens in Chiang Mai.

I feel I have to add a disclaimer to this post, because I am in no way a fan of massages in Thailand. I walk out, after being kneaded and touched so personally for an hour or more, feeling quite vulnerable, and for lack of a better word, strange. And yes, that might seem strange in itself, but I haven't been able to get around it. So I just don't do massages, and maybe I'm missing out - what do you think?

But, there is hope for those of you who might be similar to me, or maybe those who are new to Thai massages or just massages in general. I found someone who makes me feel totally comfortable and secure, and whose gentle manner is irresistible - so irresistible I had to dedicate a post to her!

Her name is Nok, and she gives the best massages I've come across in Thailand - gentle, but not too gentle, and with some infectious laughter thrown in for free.

Nok, the lady with the gentle touch.

The name of the place is Leelavadee by Sarapee Massage, and it's located down a quiet soi a little way outside the old city. Its location means it's not frequented by tourists (the few times I've walked into those places I was immediately put off by the lack of personal touch) and the lack of tacky décor is another good sign. The women who work there are personable and speak a little English, and the owner is an elderly man who has a thing for serving copious amounts of Pandan tea (nobody's complaining). I've listed the services Leelavadee offers below, as well as some photos, and if you do end up going, please share your experience in the comments!

Leelavadee Price List:

(Open every day besides Tuesday from 11:00 - 21:00)

Body & Feet:
Thai Massage	200
Foot Massage	200
Oil Massage	350
Body Scrub	680
Foot Scrub	300/hr
Head & Face:
Ayurvedic Oil Head Massage	300
Facial Threading	150
Thai-Indian Herbal Facial	380
Herbal Steam	100/½hr
Hot Wax:
Arm	250
Underarm	100
Half Leg	250
Full Leg	500

I've also included a few places below that are highly recommended by my friends and boyfriend (it seems everyone is looking for a great massage in Chiang Mai, without any funny stuff or bored masseuses talking on their phones while massaging people) so have a look at those too, and let me know if you've found a gem of a place in Chiang Mai, and I might just include it!


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Some cute statues at the entrance to Leelavadee.

Outside area, decked with funny bubble chairs.

Some interesting books and magazines in their collection - if only I could read Thai!

The waiting area where you get to guzzle all the Pandan tea you desire.

Quaint décor in a quiet setting.

Lots of old authentic Thai thingymabobs.

Recommended Massage Places (nothing dodgy here):

- Lila Thai Massage - this well-known place has always received great recommendations from friends. The masseuses are all former inmates that are being offered the chance to earn a dignified living and successfully re-integrate themselves into society, which many are not able to do given the discrimination that former inmates face in Thailand's job market. They have quite a few branches around Chiang Mai.
- Ketthawa Thai Massage (no website) - this was my boyfriend's favourite place to get a massage, and from a male masseur, because he was much stronger than most women masseuses... and my boyfriend suffers from a really stiff back and neck. There are also female masseuses at this place, and massages start from a very reasonable 150 baht - probably because this place is not at all marketed to foreigners, and no one speaks English! But give it a try if it sounds like your sort of place.

- Lanna Thai Massage School - this is where we did a 5-day massage course which was worth every penny and taught us invaluable techniques which we still practise on each other today. The people who work here are kind, patient and the massages they give are very attentive to your problem areas. Highly recommended!

Here I'll tell you all about one of my favourite bars in Chiang Mai - Neighborhood. It's more up-scale than the lovable Bus Bar, and right in the middle of the action on Nimmanheiman Soi 17, but it's also a great place to unwind and sip on some fancy German beer for a reasonable price. There's a regular band comprised of a very talented guitarist and a lovely singer, who like to belt out Michael Bublé and Dido covers after singing their whimsical rendition of Happy Birthday (of course). The atmosphere is one that I crave on a regular basis - not too hectic, not too mellow, not pretentious, but not totally scruffy either. Neighborhood has a lot going for it, and feels like a much more established bar in the area, despite only being around for 3 years.

Neighborhood Bar Breakdown:

Drinks:	There are numerous specials at any given time, although many of them are before 9pm (which is why this is a good bar for pre-drinks). There are also plenty of imported beers for great prices and in all sizes, from small glasses to enormous jugs. There is also another menu just for cocktails, and of course, the usual spirits are also available.
Food:	The food at Neighborhood is authentically Thai, which is great, although there are few vegetarian options. But there are also food carts that hang around the area, as well as the wandering hawkers selling snack foods like quail's eggs and nuts. - The prices of individual dishes start at a cheap ฿59 for a simple dish of stir-fried vegetables. - Seafood dishes begin at ฿150 for squid and shrimp, and end up at around ฿249 for bass or red tilapia. - The menu is endless and includes plenty of local favourites, such as a number of famous Thai soups and spicy salads. - There are also a few Western snacks like French Fries for ฿89, and they recently added another page to the menu, filled with deep-fried chicken wings, onion rings, and other fatty farang favourites (I joke). I'd like to give special mention to Neighborhood's Yum Kai Dao (a spicy Thai salad made up of chopped fried egg, coriander, onions, garlic, lime, tomatoes, chillies) – it is the spiciest one I've had in Chiang Mai, and by far the most delicious. Try it if you dare!
Pros:	- Atmosphere is relaxed with upbeat live music. - The level of noise is perfect inside and outside, that allows for lots of conversation. - A simple, open layout that allows waiters to be able to see you at all times. - The service is always attentive and friendly even though the waiters mostly don't speak English. - Classy décor with a stylish, wooden interior. - A refreshingly mixed crowd of young and old, with a more “upmarket” style compared to other casual bars. - Plenty of outdoor seating for smokers. - Great drinks specials and lots of fancy beers – this is a big attraction compared to our local drinking spots. - The bathrooms are clean and functional. Yes! - No mosquitoes! Ever. - It should also be said that Neighborhood is in a fantastic area, full of places to get great food, go clubbing, or just to move on somewhere else for more drinks.
Cons:	- Food is on the expensive side, and the dishes might feel a bit overwhelming for people not used to proper Thai food. - Sometimes, it can be difficult to communicate with the waiters because of the language barrier. - Food carts selling intestines and other grisly bits like to park right in front of the place, probably just to make me queasy. Although, that's not really Neighborhood's fault! - Hence, there are not enough cons about Neighborhood, really. It's one of my favourite bars in Chiang Mai.

Some of the outdoor area.

The middle level of the Sticky Falls.

After being in Chiang Mai for a while, you may hear foreigners talk about a waterfall you can climb up like a gecko climbs up a wall, and they might refer to it as the "Sticky Falls", or maybe, the "Limestone Waterfall". You might hear a Thai person talk about "Buatong" or "Nam Phu Chet Si", and casually refer to it as a nice place to visit. They would all be talking about the same place, and anyone will tell you it is an attraction well-worth experiencing, probably unlike any other you've had before.

The Songkran Festival is the Thai New Year, which takes place for three days from April 13th to April 15th (although in Chiang Mai, the famous celebrations continue for up to six days or longer). The normal new year actually begins on the first of January like most other countries, but the traditional new year is still vigorously celebrated and is a national holiday for all, when many people either join in the festivities, go back to their hometowns to visit their elders, or simply take some time off to fulfil their Buddhist rites. Of course, the ritual that everyone knows about is the throwing of water, but there are a few more which many people overlook amongst all the wet chaos.

Even little people are dangerous during Songkran.

The first day is usually when more traditional Thai people will interpret the renewal aspect of a new year quite literally, and clean out their entire homes. As a time for cleansing, people will splash water on their Buddha statues to "bathe" them, and images of Buddha are displayed publicly for strangers to pay respect to with sprinklings of jasmine-scented water. People also choose to "cleanse" themselves, by making vows to abstain from alcohol or smoking, or refrain from other behaviours, similar to western New Year resolutions. The first day is also when the celebrations begin, at home and in the streets, and you can expect to get soaking wet walking or driving anywhere.

Wan Nao is the second day of Songkran, and is when many Thais will go to temples to pray, and offer alms to monks. Younger people will gently pour water over their elders' shoulders, and people believe their respect and kindness on this particular day will bring them refreshment of the spirit and prosperity for the new year. Another ritual carried out during this time is the act of tying strings around others' wrists, while uttering blessings and wishes of good luck. People aren't supposed to remove the strings, but rather let them fall off on their own accord, and some people take pride in amassing a whole armful of them, which carries all the blessings they have received.

The third day is when the city is completely transformed into a big, slippery, flowery-smelling mess, with street food stalls in full bloom, as well as parades filled with Buddhist decorations, traditionally-dressed Thais and plenty of water-throwing. By this time, many people are all partied out, but the streets are still full, and they will be for a few more days. Water-guns and buckets are still being sold by the boatload, and stories are beginning to emerge about people finding creatures from the netherworld lurking in the moat, and scooters sliding into Starbucks and destroying all the brownies, and so on. April is the hottest month in Thailand, with an average daily high of 36°C, and record highs over 40°C, which is another reason Songkran in Thailand has become more about playing with water than with traditional rituals. Add 2 million foreign tourists to that equation (in the month of April) and you have yourself a rather large party. Here are my photos from the Thai New Year of 2013:

Ready to strike as I'm driving past.

Throwing water from trucks.

My friend and I in the midst of the madness.

My friend and I again, completely soaked.

Fighting guns with buckets.

These guys have got some evil, watery schemes going on.

The generic water-guns for sale for a small fortune (mine broke within the hour).

Action shot.

Cute.

Big chunks of ice which are being broken up to keep the water freezing. Great!

I'm guessing a lot of people say RIP to their phones during Songkran.

The chaos at Thapae Square (along with a few way-too-wasted foreigners).

Wearing a helmet was a really good idea - what a smartie-pants.

Getting splashed.

Aargh!

The ground covered in water at Thapae Square.

Ob Khan National Park, Thailand.

Here's yet another place to escape the bustle of Chiang Mai: Ob Khan National Park, about 40 minutes to an hour from the old city. The drive is simple, and thankfully has a sign or two in English, and you'll know you're in the right place once you're surrounded by beautiful forests and rocky cliffs. Please take note that it is very difficult to find accurate directions online unless you can write in Thai, so I've had a little trek through Google Streetview and found the exact route to the park. Take a look at my Ob Khan National Park Directions map below:



View Ob Khan National Park Directions in a larger map


My boyfriend and I first found ourselves at the park to test out our new camping equipment, and soon we were coming back for longer stays and camping further into the wilderness. There's nothing better than setting up tent near a gentle stream, surrounded by bamboo trees and sandy pits to make your fires.

The first time we went, we tried to speak to a woman sitting in an office, although we weren't entirely sure what the office was for exactly, or who this woman was meant to be. After a long while of exchanging nonsense, which included us repeatedly pointing out our own tent and camping equipment, and her insisting we still needed to rent one, we paid her 50 Baht just to get out of there. To us, the conclusion was that there was no fee to camp at the park with your own gear, and sure enough, no one checked up on our whereabouts, or asked us for any more money during our stay.

On top of that, there is no entrance fee to this park, unlike many others, and nor is there a charge for parking. The bathroom facilities are better than others I've seen in Thailand, with hot showers that are kept very clean. There is also a small cafeteria-type place which sells Mama's noodles, crisps, and soft drinks, but doesn't provide any cooked meals. It really is just you and your foil-wrapped potatoes at this place, so don't forget to bring anything you might need. The convenient thing is that water and beer can be kept relatively cool by lodging them in between rocks in the stream. You can go off exploring at 10 am in the hot sun and come back in the cool evening to find your drinks are still cool themselves.

At Ob Khan, there are plenty of things to see and do during the day, if you ever get tired of just relaxing in nature. There is a pleasant trail which winds along next to the river, and there are quite a few isolated areas to picnic and swim along the way. There are also waterfalls, viewpoints, and a few interesting birds and creatures to spot. Also, the park is sort of like a hidden gem in the sense that it's usually quite empty. We've seen a camp of churchgoers there once, and another time there was a large group of Fine Art students from Chiang Mai University, who sat around quietly sketching the beauty of our surroundings. All in all, it's an undisturbed, peaceful place to waste away a few days, and come back to the city refreshed and revitalised.

A view of the river at the start of the nature trail.

Hello.

Lost in the trees.

Alongside the river.

Late afternoon.

On the way back to camp.

A view of the same spot of river in the late afternoon.

Our fire as the moon rose.

Perfecting the art of cavemanship.

Relaxing outside the tent in the early morning.

A natural bamboo awning near our tent.

It was during the dry season at this time - still very beautiful.

A little bridge that led to our campsite.

Perfect for swimming.

About 10km out of the old city lies a well-known man-made lake called Huay Tung Tao. It's where you'll find groups of Thais sharing large platters of steamed fish and drinking beers on a sunny afternoon, and goldendoodles plopping in the water to cool off, and fully-clothed Thai children doing the same. It's a lovely place to watch the world pass by, even if that world only consists of a crisp mountain view over an enormous lake.

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It's 20 Baht to get in the park, and you drive to any side of the lake you choose. You can hire pedal boats and tubes, and the menu offers the usual Thai fare, although it is a little pricier than usual. You can bring your own beers and food although you'll have to pay 500 Baht to use the table. We have never swum there, as we've heard rumours about lake-snakes and other creepy-crawlies, and usually get a bit distracted by our ice-cold beers, dancing shrimp, and great conversation.

Here are my photos from various outings to the lake:

Late afternoon skies.

The setting sun.

Some of the other huts.

A view of the lake and mountain from our eating-spot.

Myself, my boyfriend, and our dog for the day.

Serious Teacher Martin and Playful Teacher Matt.

Some gorgeous girlfriends.

A friend squeezing water from her skirt, and fire-smoke in the background.