Phrae is a small town about 3-4 hours away from Chiang Mai by bus, with a reasonable cost of ฿180 for a return ticket. A while ago I joined a Dragonfly English Camp at a remote temple school there, but I decided to stay in Phrae for longer than just the two-day camp, so my partner in mischief could join me for a few days afterwards and have a countryside getaway.

The first thing I noticed was the weather, because Phrae was a different sort of Northern place - it was significantly drier and more humid than Chiang Mai, with a landscape that was quite unfamiliar to what we'd explored already. The feel of the city was much more bare than busy Chiang Mai, and felt quite simple and uncluttered. The best part about our trip was that a short drive outside the city in any direction took you straight into middle-of-nowhere Northern Thailand. Perfect!

This was the real highlight of the place; getting lost out on the open roads alongside lush rice paddies, mountainous backdrops, and long, winding highways to bigger, busier places than quaint old Phrae. As usual, everything I mention is marked on the map below, which you'll need as there is not much English to be found in this tourist-less little heaven.

Since moving away from Chiang Mai, I've found myself dreaming of all the mouthwatering dishes I took for granted when I lived there. Khao soi, som tam, curries, ice cream, salads, noodles, and of course, all those fiery chillies! So I've made a list of the most scrumptious, addictive, mouthwatering foods in Chiang Mai (in my opinion) and where you can find them all, of course!

Almost every night of the week I get takeaway dinners from my local no-name restaurant, which is seriously lacking in ambiance as well as pretence, and is bursting with delicious, simple, cheap Thai food. I know there are lots of these around, and other people have also been lucky enough to find their own special no-name place, which are usually conveniently located to them or just housing some friendly cooks and other interesting locals. Mine has become a bit of a special place for me that I have grown to appreciate quite profoundly, and expect to miss more than many other places once I leave Chiang Mai.

I'm writing this post at the risk of exposing one of my favourite little hideaways, where I regularly sip on some cheap beer with close friends, sing along to terrible 90's songs, order the same three dishes over and over again (they are that good), and eventually stumble home after getting one too many "crazy-falang" looks from the waiters. The place is called Rod Sabieng Restaurant, which sits unobtrusively opposite the train station, and offers great, affordable Thai food until late at night - but enough of that. The important thing is, this is my local beer buffet, and nobody seems to know about but me (the fact that almost nothing related comes up in a Google search should tell you enough).

The beer buffet has been around as long as I've lived here (going on 16 months) which says a lot for Rod Sabieng, as most beer buffets in the city seem to quench the bar owners' thirst for money within a few weeks, and leave plenty of people wondering where to drink without breaking their budgets. However, there have been a few changes over the last few months, with the new alcohol tax in Thailand bringing the price up to ฿139 when it used to be cheaper. But who's complaining at that price, right? Also, they don't leave the jug of beer at your table like they used to, but instead bring it round when they feel like filling it up (I suspect we might have had something to do with this new rule - whoops).

The food is consistently good, and after a few meat-mishaps in the early days, the staff now understand that I'm the difficult one who sends back pork-filled Vietnamese spring rolls which I had asked to be vegetarian. Make sure the staff know what you're on about as they are all very willing to put up with any requests, especially strange ones after you've had too much beer. They also have a great stock of mushrooms and tofu, so veg-versions of most dishes will be bulked up and filling, if you know how to ask for it!

Rod Sabieng Breakdown:

Drinks:	Cheap! Chang Draft buffet every single night, from 5 pm til 8pm, for ฿139 per person. Other drinks available, ranging from large Leo beers for ฿70 to a small bottle of Sangsom for ฿179. Not bad at all!
Food:	Pretty much everything myself or my friends have eaten at Rod Sabieng have received positive mmm's and oooh's. The food is solidly and authentically Thai, packed with strange ingredients and way too much chilli (just how I like it). - The majority of the menu's dishes range between ฿69 - ฿99 a plate. - The fried fish dishes are more expensive at around ฿179 or so, each. - Dishes with snapper fish are the most expensive at ฿249. - Surprisingly, the international food section of the menu is not more expensive than the Thai section, with a burger being a reasonable ฿80.- There are some great bargain dishes, including Pad Thai, Khao Soi and Sukiyaki, for ฿45 - ฿55 each, and fried rice dishes for ฿49.
Pros:	- Atmosphere. The simple wooden chairs amidst hanging plants and dim lights are a great way to spend an evening unwinding. - Service is good from most of the staff, although it was better before when you could fill up your own glasses. - The bathrooms have recently been renovated, and look fancier than ever. - Music. Most of the time, sing-along tunes come from the big box speakers dotted around the restaurant - think Eric Clapton's Tears in Heaven, The Eagles' Hotel California, and Celine Dion's My Heart Will Go On. So bad they are good, with the occasional Avril Lavigne or Robbie Williams thrown in to make it even worse (ie: better). Usually, you can expect great live music from a guitarist or pianist when it gets a bit later. - Food. The food is a great introduction to typical Thai fare done well. My carnivorous friends rant and rave about the Neua Tied Tieaw (sesame sun-dried beef fried with crispy lime leaves), while we all collectively rave about the Pak Boong Tord (deep-fried morning glory salad, with an unbeatable sauce filled with chillies, coriander, peanuts and shredded carrot). Special mention goes to all the Thai spicy salads on the menu - they never disappoint with their spiciness. In fact, they make you cry. - Location. Great for me! It's right near my place, which could be a bad thing, actually...
Cons:	- Location.  There aren't really any nearby bars or places to hang out after the beer buffet, which is why it's just really for some dinner and beers with friends. - Service. The beer jug is no longer left at your table, but now filled up irregularly by whoever decides to saunter over. Personally, I don't enjoy or see the need for you to be interacting with staff more than a few times in an evening, which is a downfall for Rod Sabieng. You have to constantly draw attention to yourself, and even when you ring the bell provided, they are reluctant to rush over. Also, there are two or three waitresses with bad attitudes who seem to seethe at the idea of bringing over a mosquito coil or ashtray, leaving the task for a good fifteen minutes every time. (Unfortunately, you do come across this behaviour in many different places in Thailand - I tend to chalk it down to their own personal problems or depression, and try not blame myself.) - Mosquitoes. As usual (this is Thailand, people).

View Market of Eden Nightlife Map in a larger map

Khao Soy and beer - perfect combo!

Here I'll tell you all about one of my favourite bars in Chiang Mai - Neighborhood. It's more up-scale than the lovable Bus Bar, and right in the middle of the action on Nimmanheiman Soi 17, but it's also a great place to unwind and sip on some fancy German beer for a reasonable price. There's a regular band comprised of a very talented guitarist and a lovely singer, who like to belt out Michael Bublé and Dido covers after singing their whimsical rendition of Happy Birthday (of course). The atmosphere is one that I crave on a regular basis - not too hectic, not too mellow, not pretentious, but not totally scruffy either. Neighborhood has a lot going for it, and feels like a much more established bar in the area, despite only being around for 3 years.

Neighborhood Bar Breakdown:

Drinks:	There are numerous specials at any given time, although many of them are before 9pm (which is why this is a good bar for pre-drinks). There are also plenty of imported beers for great prices and in all sizes, from small glasses to enormous jugs. There is also another menu just for cocktails, and of course, the usual spirits are also available.
Food:	The food at Neighborhood is authentically Thai, which is great, although there are few vegetarian options. But there are also food carts that hang around the area, as well as the wandering hawkers selling snack foods like quail's eggs and nuts. - The prices of individual dishes start at a cheap ฿59 for a simple dish of stir-fried vegetables. - Seafood dishes begin at ฿150 for squid and shrimp, and end up at around ฿249 for bass or red tilapia. - The menu is endless and includes plenty of local favourites, such as a number of famous Thai soups and spicy salads. - There are also a few Western snacks like French Fries for ฿89, and they recently added another page to the menu, filled with deep-fried chicken wings, onion rings, and other fatty farang favourites (I joke). I'd like to give special mention to Neighborhood's Yum Kai Dao (a spicy Thai salad made up of chopped fried egg, coriander, onions, garlic, lime, tomatoes, chillies) – it is the spiciest one I've had in Chiang Mai, and by far the most delicious. Try it if you dare!
Pros:	- Atmosphere is relaxed with upbeat live music. - The level of noise is perfect inside and outside, that allows for lots of conversation. - A simple, open layout that allows waiters to be able to see you at all times. - The service is always attentive and friendly even though the waiters mostly don't speak English. - Classy décor with a stylish, wooden interior. - A refreshingly mixed crowd of young and old, with a more “upmarket” style compared to other casual bars. - Plenty of outdoor seating for smokers. - Great drinks specials and lots of fancy beers – this is a big attraction compared to our local drinking spots. - The bathrooms are clean and functional. Yes! - No mosquitoes! Ever. - It should also be said that Neighborhood is in a fantastic area, full of places to get great food, go clubbing, or just to move on somewhere else for more drinks.
Cons:	- Food is on the expensive side, and the dishes might feel a bit overwhelming for people not used to proper Thai food. - Sometimes, it can be difficult to communicate with the waiters because of the language barrier. - Food carts selling intestines and other grisly bits like to park right in front of the place, probably just to make me queasy. Although, that's not really Neighborhood's fault! - Hence, there are not enough cons about Neighborhood, really. It's one of my favourite bars in Chiang Mai.

Some of the outdoor area.

There is a little restaurant that might be easy to overlook if you are in the madness that is the old city. Right next to the overpowering Black Canyon Coffee, and opposite the Thapae Gate which leads into the square, is a hole in the wall which resembles a tiny log cabin from the outside. Yes, a log cabin. Parking outside the restaurant is not allowed, and you can easily walk by it countless times without taking a second glance, so the little place known as Aum Vegetarian Restaraunt often gets neglected in the majestic food landscape that is Chiang Mai.

Aum offers something which many Chiang Mai restaurant owners have yet to catch on to: a vegetarian visitor to Chiang Mai still wants to experience typical Thai food. The sad truth is a lot of them simply don't, usually because they have a bad experience, are misunderstood, are judged or humiliated, or just flat-out rejected. I cannot count the number of times I have had meat arrive in my food, and always marvel at the disregard for my requests. I wonder, if I were deathly allergic to meat, would I be taken more seriously? I'm guessing not.

So many restaurants and road-side eateries have the means to make their meals vegetarian-friendly, but for some reason this concept seems to be an embarrassingly incomprehensible one in Thailand. Aum has managed to transcend all this anti-veggo-nonsense, and simply serves Thai food, sans meat. At Aum, you can order any Thai dish you would find on the street or in a restaurant, and they will happily bring it to you, full of fresh vegetables and bulked up with delicious local mushrooms and potatoes. Their drinks are particularly tasty, which include shakes with delightful combinations of ginger and fruit, and interesting Lassi creations like Mint and Mango. The place is not overly fancy, and neither is the menu, but to me that just says it's not pretentious either. If you're looking for unusual food, then Aum isn't where it's at, but if you just want delicious Thai food done right, and meat-free, then it definitely is.

Aum Breakdown:

Prices:	Food: Average prices are between ฿60 - ฿90 for a dish. The vegetarian sushi is pricier, ranging from ฿120 - ฿165. The most expensive dish on the menu is the California Maki for ฿195. Drinks: Starting at ฿20 for fresh juices, and up to ฿70 for shakes with Spirulina. The most expensive drink is the Avocado shake with Spirulina at ฿75.
Location:	65 Moon Muang Road, on the east side of the old city. A central location, opposite Thapae Gate, and next door to Black Canyon Coffee.
Times:	Open from 11:00 am to 9:30 pm every day. (Watch out - this place is a very popular lunchtime hangout, and as it's quite small, you might have to wait.)
What makes Aum special?	It's a laidback place, conducive to lazing around and paging through old books, or strumming the guitar. The Lassi's are addictive, the food simple yet delicious, and it's always a good place to turn to when you want any Thai dish done vegetarian.

Khao Soy, which some claim is the best vegetarian one in Chiang Mai.

Mae Sai is a town with a bridge crossing into Burma from Thailand. It's a place people go to extend their tourist visas. Locals there sell lots of fruit wine and the other usual Thai thingy-ma-bobs. And that's really all that can be said about the town of Mae Sai.

The actual town of Mae Sai is not the interesting part about this trip. As a traveller you might have to make a visa run now and then, and many stories are less than encouraging. My own experiences with visa runs have left me running back to my temporary city of Chiang Mai. But the trip to Mae Sai can be made into a great little adventure. Here's what you'll need in your imaginary adventure bag:

• A vehicle - preferably a hired 110cc scooter, so that you can experience all that lovely plastic rattling and coughing while you drive at 80km along the highway.
• A passenger - this has to be someone who doesn't complain about having a sore backside, or not having toilet stops for several hours.
• Toilet roll - for when you actually do find a bathroom.
• A towel - you can sit on this to ease your sore backside, and use it to dry you off after splashing about in rivers along the way.
• Sunscreen - the amount of times humans have ended up looking like lobsters because they "forgot the sunscreen" must be astronomical.
• Clothes - I would recommend two shirts and a pair of pants for the more brutish of our species, and a sundress, bikini, lingerie, tank top, shorts, jersey, t-shirt, jeans, high heels and make-up, all in a Louis Vitton bag, for the more sensible of our species. Not! Go as minimal as possible - you're the one who has to lug it around everywhere you go. Plus you're weighing down that 110cc scooter.
• Camera - and the charger.
• Mosquito spray - you think you know all about mosquitoes? Welcome to the world's most incomprehensibly mean mosquitoes. I think they lacked love growing up.
• A bad sense of direction - this talent proves to be invaluable when you find yourself parked at the top of a mountain exclaiming, "I've found the top of the world!"
• An easygoing nature - you're about to eat at places on the side of the road that will put all sorts of creatures on your plate, and you're about to stay at places where the ceiling drips brown goo - into your eye. You're probably also about to drink all night in a dodgy little bar when it's election weekend, and therefore drinking is temporarily banned. On top of that, you're going to come across hundreds of people trying to sell you all the same touristy junk they try and sell you in Chiang Mai. And because you forgot the sunscreen, you're going to be horribly grumpy and sunburnt. All in all, you've got to have taken a massive dose of chill pills when you were a teenager, and they're still busy working their way through your system now. Mai bpen rai, no worries, hakuna matata.

Enjoy the (many) photos from our trip to Mae Sai:

Wat Rong Khun, aka The White Temple, in Chiang Rai.